Fruit acids for your skin

13 March 2024 - Skincare

AHA's

Fruitacids, better known as Alfa Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s), are indispensable in our skin care products. But what exactly are fruit acids,? Is it safe to use and what can I expect from these 'miracle ingredients'?

 
What are fruit acids?

Alfa hydroxy acids  (AHA's) are a group of acids derived from natural sources such as cane sugar, sour milk, apples, strawberries and citrus fruits. There are dozens of different types of fruit acids; Many have nothing to do with fruit. The basic chemical structure makes them a group of fruit acids. 

In America (where the fruit acids were 'born'), fruit acids are still seen as the miracle of the 20th century. Scientists agree that it is one of the most important ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetics and can lead to better chemical peeling, the reduction of wrinkles and the reduction of fine lines.   

 
The most well-known AHA's for use in cosmetology are: 
  • Glycolic acid 
  • Lactic acid
  • Malic acid
  • Tartaric acid
  • Mandalic acid
  • Citric acid
  • Peruvic acid
  • Azelaic acid
 
How does fruit acids work?
The skin 

I'll start by explaining how our skin works. Our skin is the only organ that renews itself monthly (4-6 weeks). Old, dead skin cells are shed daily to make way for the newcomers. The cells of our stratum corneum  (outer layer of the skin) are glued together with small hooks. For these cells to release and then peel off, the glue from the hooks must first dissolve. Usually this happens on its own, but some tend to stick together, resulting in a thick top layer of skin. As a result, you slowly lose your radiant complexion and pores can become clogged. The result: sebum accumulates and the combination of bacteria and sebum eventually results in the appearance of pimples. 

Acidity of our skin (pH value)  

Our skin must also be waterproof (otherwise we will fill up in the bath) and protect underlying structures from penetration of microorganisms to protect itself from infections, irritations, allergies and dehydration.For this, our skin produces an extra protective layer consisting of sebum, sweat, stratum corneum and water. Better known as the "Acid Mantle". This determines the acidity (pH) of our skin: stable acidity is crucial for the health of our skin. The pH of healthy skin is between 4.2 and 5.6. Skincare products with a lower pH have a high irritation potential. 

 
  • What does AHA's do?Many skin problems arise because the exfoliation process (desquamation) of the skin does not go well. Fruit acids help dissolve the 'glue' between the cells and thus promote the exfoliation process of the skin. The effect of fruit acids has to do with the pH value of our skin. Scientific studies have shown that a pH value below 3.0 causes irritation, peeling and redness. But what do these AHA's do? Let's list it for you:

    - Rebalance the skin                                         
    - Ensures a healthy skin 
    - Improves the structure of the skin 
    - Improves the resistance of the skin 
    - Enhance the sensitivity of the skin 
    - It purifies pores
    - Improve skin colour 

 
 
How do you use AHA's?

Depending on the desired outcome, select a product with the appropriate combination of fruit acids. Here are some tips for choosing the right product: 

1.If you are using fruit acids for the first time, opt for a single product containing AHAs. Using multiple fruit acid products simultaneously can lead to irritation.

2.Cleansing products with AHAs are gentle and provide a polishing and anti-bacterial effect rather than a peeling effect. This makes them suitable for many skin types. The LOOkX Derma daily cleanser contains 3% glycolic acid for a gentle polishing effect, as well as deep cleansing and moisturizing properties.

3. It's crucial to use SPF in conjunction with a fruit acid product. Currently, there are no products on the market that combine these two components in a single formula. SPF tends to be unstable in a fruit acid mixture.

4.AHAs are most effective when present in concentrations between 5% and 8% and at a pH level between 3 and 4. 

LOOkX Derma skin polish pads contains 5% glycolic acid, 5% lactic acid and 3% malic acid with a pH of 4.2. Safe, but effective enough for daily use.  
Visit a LOOkX skin expert near you for personalized skincare advice.